Managing culinary adversity with food literacy: Children’s encounter with whole fish and bitter greens

Abstract

The global dietary transition is, among other things, marked by the prominence of softer, mechanically easy-to-eat foods and simple flavours. However, maintaining children’s tolerance to adverse dietary experiences, such as eating around bones, or consuming bitter vegetables, is an important contributor to nutritional balance and cultural preservation. Re-framing the capability to eat ‘difficult’ foods as an admirable, broadly useful, life skill would go a long way towards fighting against food neophobia or predilection for ultra-processed foods. In this article, I reflect on a sub-set of data gathered in 2018–20 from interactive food literacy benchmarking activities for 12–17-year-olds in Japan and Cambodia. Among the activities were measures of eating skill and tolerating adversity involving consumption of (A) bitter green vegetables and (B) whole fish. I find that social pressures lead children to derive social recognition from their food literacy and to make cognitive leaps about the utility of being able to face culinary adversity. This presents an alternative for casting adverse foods as personal, lifelong challenges rather than as momentary gustatory revulsion. It also presents an alternative approach to conventional food education, with the possibility for simultaneously measuring food literacy deficits and creating context for their resolution.