Geometry and Mechanics of the Buckling Wrinkle in Fabrics

Abstract

The wrinkling of garments is analyzed by deforming a fabric cylinder in axial compression. The buckling process and characteristics of such a cylinder in axial compression are explained in detail. It is obvious that the buckling pattern generated in knitted fabrics is different from that in woven fabrics: the pattern in knitted fabrics is of the bellows type, while that in woven fabric is usually of the diamond type. For the knitted fabric, the length of the wave of the bellows is calculated according to orthotropic and anisotropic theory. For the woven fabric, the buckling pattern is con structed by lobes, which are simply classified into three kinds; the pattern can be expressed by three parameters and the formulas derived for them. The results of com parison between the Yoshimura buckle pattern and the buckling pattern of a fabric will be useful for apparel design.