On the breaking of water waves on a sloping beach of arbitrary shape-Reference-Cited by-同舟云学术

On the breaking of water waves on a sloping beach of arbitrary shape

Published:1975 Issue:2 Volume:33 Page:187-189
ISSN:0033-569X
Container-title:Quarterly of Applied Mathematics
language:en
Short-container-title:Quart. Appl. Math.

Author:

Gurtin Morton E.

Abstract

Greenspan [1] considered water waves of finite amplitude on a beach of constant slope. He proved that: ( ( G 1 ) \left ( {{G_1}} \right ) ) A wave of elevation with nonzero slope at the front propagating shoreward into quiescent water always breaks before the shore.†( ( G 2 ) \left ( {{G_2}} \right ) ) Under the same conditions a wave of depression never breaks.

Publisher

American Mathematical Society (AMS)

Subject

Applied Mathematics

Link

http://www.ams.org/qam/1975-33-02/S0033-569X-1975-99666-0/S0033-569X-1975-99666-0.pdf

Reference4 articles.

1. On the breaking of water waves of finite amplitude on a sloping beach;Greenspan, H. P.;J. Fluid Mech.,1958

2. Water waves of finite amplitude on a sloping beach;Carrier, G. F.;J. Fluid Mech.,1958

3. J. J. Stoker, Comm. Pure Appl. Math. 1, 9 (1948)

4. The classical field theories;Truesdell, C.,1960

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