Author:
Carrier G. F.,Greenspan H. P.
Abstract
In this paper, we investigate the behaviour of a wave as it climbs a sloping beach. Explicit solutions of the equations of the non-linear inviscid shallow-water theory are obtained for several physically interesting wave-forms. In particular it is shown that waves can climb a sloping beach without breaking. Formulae for the motions of the instantaneous shoreline as well as the time histories of specific wave-forms are presented.
Publisher
Cambridge University Press (CUP)
Subject
Mechanical Engineering,Mechanics of Materials,Condensed Matter Physics
Reference2 articles.
1. Watson, G. N. 1944 A Treatise on the Theory of Bessel Functions ,2nd Ed. Cambridge University Press.
2. Stoker, J. J. 1948 The formation of breakers and bores,Comm. Pure Appl. Math. 1,1.
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