Optimizing Infragravity Wave Attenuation to Improve Coral Reef Restoration Design for Coastal Defense

Author:

Norris Benjamin K.1ORCID,Storlazzi Curt D.2ORCID,Pomeroy Andrew W. M.3,Reguero Borja G.1ORCID

Affiliation:

1. Institute of Marine Sciences, University of California, Santa Cruz, 115 McAllister Way, Santa Cruz, CA 95060, USA

2. US Geological Survey, Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center, 2885 Mission Street, Santa Cruz, CA 95060, USA

3. School of BioSciences, Biosciences 4, The University of Melbourne, Royal Parade, Parkville, VIC 3052, Australia

Abstract

Coral reefs are effective natural flood barriers that protect adjacent coastal communities. As the need to adapt to rising sea levels, storms, and environmental changes increases, reef restoration may be one of the best tools available to mitigate coastal flooding along tropical coastlines, now and in the future. Reefs act as a barrier to incoming short-wave energy but can amplify low-frequency infragravity waves that, in turn, drive coastal flooding along low-lying tropical coastlines. Here, we investigate whether the spacing of reef restoration elements can be optimized to maximize infragravity wave energy dissipation while minimizing the number of elements—a key factor in the cost of a restoration project. With this goal, we model the hydrodynamics of infragravity wave dissipation over a coral restoration or artificial reef, represented by a canopy of idealized hemispherical roughness elements, using a three-dimensional Navier–Stokes equations solver (OpenFOAM). The results demonstrate that denser canopies of restoration elements produce greater wave dissipation under larger waves with longer periods. Wave dissipation is also frequency-dependent: dense canopies remove wave energy at the predominant wave frequency, whereas sparse canopies remove energy at higher frequencies, and hence are less efficient. We also identify an inflection point in the canopy density–energy dissipation curve that balances optimal energy losses with a minimum number of canopy elements. Through this work, we show that there are an ideal number of restoration elements per across-shore meter of coral reef flat that can be installed to dissipate infragravity wave energy for given incident heights and periods. These results have implications for designing coral reef restoration projects on reef flats that are effective both from a coastal defense and costing standpoint.

Funder

U.S. Geological Survey Coastal and Marine Hazards and Resources Program

U.S. Geological Survey Mendenhall Research Fellowship Program

Australian-America Fulbright Commission

Gulf Research Program of the National Academies of Sciences, Engineering, and Medicine

Publisher

MDPI AG

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