Simulating Nearshore Wave Processes Utilizing an Enhanced Boussinesq-Type Model

Abstract

The simulation of wave propagation and penetration inside ports and coastal areas is of paramount importance to engineers and scientists desiring to obtain an accurate representation of the wave field. However, this is often a rather daunting task due to the complexity of the processes that need to be resolved, as well as the demanding levels of required computational resources. In the present paper, the enhancements made on an existing sophisticated Boussinesq-type wave model, concerning the accurate generation of irregular multidirectional waves, as well as an empirical methodology to calculate wave overtopping discharges, are presented. The model was extensively validated against 4 experimental test cases, covering a wide range of applications, namely wave propagation over a shoal, wave penetration in ports through a breakwater gap, wave breaking on a plane sloping beach, and wave overtopping behind breakwaters. Good agreement of the model results with all experimental measurements was achieved, rendering the wave model a valuable tool in real-life applications for engineers and scientists desiring to obtain accurate solutions of the wave field in wave basins and complex coastal areas, while keeping computational times at reasonable levels.