Hair surface interactions against different chemical functional groups as a function of environment and hair condition

Author:

Labarre Leslie1,Squillace Ophélie1,Liu Yu1,Fryer Peter J.1,Kaur Preeti2,Whitaker Shane2,Marsh Jennifer M.2ORCID,Zhang Zhenyu J.1ORCID

Affiliation:

1. School of Chemical Engineering University of Birmingham, Edgbaston Birmingham UK

2. The Procter & Gamble Company Mason Business Centre Mason Ohio USA

Abstract

AbstractObjectiveThe nature and magnitude of molecular interactions on hair surfaces underpin the design of formulated products, of which the application involves a competitive adsorption process between cationic surfactants, fatty alcohols and surface actives such as silicone. The knowledge of molecular interaction with hair surface will not only provide insight on the surface binding affinity but also offer an effective methodology in characterizing surface deposits.MethodsUntreated and chemically treated hair samples were treated with either conditioner chassis alone (gel network) or conditioner chassis plus silicone (chassis/TAS). Hair surface interactions against four different chemical functional groups, namely methyl (−CH3), acid (−COOH), amine (−NH2) and hydroxyl (−OH), were quantified in both ambient and aqueous environment using Chemical Force Microscopy, a method based on atomic force microscopy (AFM).ResultsSurface adhesion on hair in ambient is dominated by capillary force that is determined by both the wettability of hair fibre (hydrophobic vs. hydrophilic), presence of any deposits and the chemical functionality of the AFM cantilever. Capillary force is diminished and replaced by electrostatic interaction when polar groups are present on both hair and AFM cantilever. A distinctively different force, hydrophobic interaction, plays a major role when virgin hair and hydrophobic functionalized AFM cantilever make contact in water.ConclusionResults acquired by AFM cantilevers of different functional groups show that hydrophobic interaction is a key driver for deposition on virgin hair, whilst electrostatic interaction is the most important one for bleached hair. Interfacial conformation of chassis components upon deposition is determined by the hair surface properties. Our study highlights the possibility of a range of polar groups, not necessarily negatively charged, on the damaged hair. Unlike conventional surface chemical analysis method, it is possible to quantitatively evaluate the interfacial conformation of deposited surface actives on hair, which identifies the target moieties for conditioning products on different types of hair.

Funder

Engineering and Physical Sciences Research Council

Procter and Gamble

Royal Academy of Engineering

Publisher

Wiley

Subject

Colloid and Surface Chemistry,Dermatology,Drug Discovery,Pharmaceutical Science,Aging,Chemistry (miscellaneous)

Reference37 articles.

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2. BreakspearS SmithJR LuengoG editors.Cosmetic touch at the nanoscale: role of covalently‐bound lipids on the nanotribology of the hair surface. In:The 227th ACS National Meeting Anaheim California USA;2004.

3. Distribution and Localization of Hydrophobic and Ionic Chemical Groups at the Surface of Bleached Human Hair Fibers

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