Affiliation:
1. CBQF-Centro de Biotecnologia e Química Fina-Laboratório Associado, Escola Superior de Biotecnologia, Universidade Católica Portuguesa, Rua Diogo Botelho 1327, 4169-005 Porto, Portugal
2. Institute of Physics for Advanced Materials, Nanotechnology and Photonics (IFIMUP), Physics and Astronomy Department, Faculty of Sciences, University of Porto, Rua do Campo Alegre s/n, 4169-007 Porto, Portugal
Abstract
The increasing demand for effective hair care products has highlighted the necessity for rigorous claims substantiation methods, particularly for products that target specific hair types. This is essential because the effectiveness of a product can vary significantly based on the hair’s condition and characteristics. A well-defined bleaching protocol is crucial for creating a standardized method to assess product efficacy, especially for products designed to repair damaged hair. The objective of this study was to create a practical bleaching protocol that mimics real-world consumer experiences, ensuring that hair samples exhibit sufficient damage for testing. This approach allows for a reliable assessment of how well various products can repair hair. The protocol serves as a framework for evaluating hair properties and the specific effects of each product on hair structure. Color, brightness, lightness, morphology, and topography were primarily used to understand the big differences in the hair fiber when treated with two repair benchmark products, K18® and Olaplex®, in relation to the Bleached hair. The devised bleaching protocol proved to be a fitting framework for assessing the properties of hair and the unique characteristics of each tested product within the hair fiber. This protocol offers valuable insights and tools for substantiating consumer claims, with morphological and mechanical methods serving as indispensable tools for recognizing and validating claims related to hair. The addition of K18® and Olaplex® demonstrated an increase in hair brightness (Y) and lightness (L* and a*) in relation to the Bleached samples, which were considered relevant characteristics for consumers. Olaplex®’s water-based nature creates a visible inner sheet, effectively filling empty spaces and improving the disulfide linkage network. This enhancement was corroborated by the increased number of disulfide bonds and evident changes in the FTIR profile. In contrast, K18®, owing to the lipophilic nature of its constituents, resulted in the formation of an external layer above the fiber. The composition of each of the products had a discrete impact on the fiber distribution, which was an outcome relevant to the determination of spreadability by consumers.
Funder
European Regional Development Fund
Amyris Bio Products Portugal, Unipessoal Ltd.
Escola Superior de Biotecnologia—Universidade Católica Portuguesa
FCT project