Waves Initiative within SEACOOS

Abstract

Amongst other ocean state parameters, the development of a wave measurement program was supported as part of the Southeast U.S. Atlantic Coastal Ocean Observing System (SEACOOS). The program focused on supporting nearshore wave measurements using both cabled and autonomous systems but also examined the feasibility of using HF Radar systems for remote estimation of wave parameters. The nearshore stations have provided a significant database on directional wave climate for a number of nearshore locations in the region that provide valuable information to coastal engineers and managers for sustainable development along the coast of the southeastern United States. The ability of Wellen high-frequency radar (WERA HF) to provide wave information was evaluated through a field experiment in SE Florida. The results were encouraging and placed some initial bounds on the confidence to be associated with empirically derived wave height information. Coordination efforts for the development of a comprehensive waves program for the Southeast U.S. were initiated and contributed to the development of the National Wave Observations plan. They also led to the development of a new Regional Coastal Ocean Observing System (RCOOS) that includes developing systems in support of local weather forecast offices in their surfzone and rip-current forecasts.