On the excitation of edge waves on beaches

Author:

Minzoni A. A.,Whitham G. B.

Abstract

The excitation of standing edge waves of frequency ½ω by a normally incident wave train of frequency ω has been discussed previously (Guza & Davis 1974; Guza & Inman 1975; Guza & Bowen 1976) on the basis of shallow-water theory. Here the problem is formulated in the full water-wave theory without making the shallow-water approximation and solved for beach angles β = π/2N, where N is an integer. The work confirms the shallow-water results in the limit N [Gt ] 1, shows the effect of larger beach angles and allows a more complete discussion of some aspects of the problem.

Publisher

Cambridge University Press (CUP)

Subject

Mechanical Engineering,Mechanics of Materials,Condensed Matter Physics

Reference11 articles.

1. Whitham, G. B. 1976 J. Fluid Mech. 74,353–368.

2. Guza, R. T. & Bowen, A. J. 1976 J. Mar. Res. 34,269–293.

3. Guza, R. T. & Bowen, A. J. 1975 J. Geophys. Res. 80,4529–4534.

4. Courant, R. & Hilbert, D. 1953 Methods of Mathematical Physics , vol. 1.Interscience.

5. Guza, R. T. & Inman, D. 1975 J. Geophys. Res. 80,2997–3011.

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