Author:
AGNON Y.,MADSEN P. A.,SCHÄFFER H. A.
Abstract
An infinite-order, Boussinesq-type differential equation for wave shoaling over variable
bathymetry is derived. Defining three scaling parameters – nonlinearity, the dispersion
parameter, and the bottom slope – the system is truncated to a finite order.
Using Padé approximants the order in the dispersion parameter is effectively doubled.
A derivation is made systematic by separately solving the Laplace equation in the
undisturbed fluid domain and then addressing the nonlinear free-surface conditions.
We show that the nonlinear interactions are faithfully captured. The shoaling and
dispersion components are time independent.
Publisher
Cambridge University Press (CUP)
Subject
Mechanical Engineering,Mechanics of Materials,Condensed Matter Physics
Cited by
123 articles.
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