On the decrease of velocity with depth in an irrotational water wave

Abstract

ABSTRACTThe following theorems are proved for irrotational surface waves of finite amplitude in a uniform, incompressible fluid:(a) In any space-periodic motion (progressive or otherwise) in uniform depth, the mean square of the velocity is a decreasing function of the mean depth z below the surface. Hence the fluctuations in the mean pressure increase with z.(b) In any space-periodic motion in infinite depth, the particle motion tends to zero exponentially as z tends to infinity. The pressure fluctuations at great depths are therefore simultaneous, but they do not in general tend to zero.(c) In a progressive periodic wave in uniform depth the mass-transport velocity is a decreasing function of the mean depth of a particle below the free surface, and the tangent to the velocity profile is vertical at the bottom. This result conflicts with observations in wave tanks, and shows that the waves cannot be wholly irrotational.(d) Analogous results are proved for the solitary wave.