Mass transport in gravity waves

Abstract

ABSTRACTA proof is given of the existence of a slow drift associated with the passage of gravity waves over the surface of a frictionless fluid when the wave motion is irrotational. The drift is in the direction of propagation and is greatest near the surface, decreasing steadily towards the bottom, where it may be negative if the fluid is of finite depth. The particle displacement due to a solitary wave has similar properties. The proof confirms the approximate calculations of Stokes (6) and extends the proof of Rayleigh applicable only to deep water.