Boussinesq modelling of tsunami and storm wave impact

Abstract

Many coastal protection structures in the UK have been designed for storm surges with appropriate return periods, but their performance during tsunami-type waves is uncertain. A shallow water and Boussinesq model is well suited to the investigation of both near-shore storm waves and tsunami waves. This paper makes use of the model to compare the effect on coastal structures of solitary waves and storm waves. Wave run-up parameters for both types of wave are generated and shown to be in good agreement with experimental data. The equations behind the model were derived assuming a small bed slope and therefore are not suitable for modelling waves interacting with vertical and near-vertical structures. However, the introduction of a reverse momentum term, to take account of a jet of water typical of a breaking wave impacting against a structure, allows wave overtopping volumes to be well predicted, although it had a minor effect on the forces acting on the structure. Comparisons with experimental data, for both solitary waves and storm waves, are presented. Using this model, the difference between the impact, in terms of wave forces and wave overtopping, of tsunami waves and storm waves for a given structure is investigated.