Dynamics between market categories: A study of the (in) visibility of the plus-size fashion market

Abstract

By studying fashion market, this research analyzes domination stakes existing between two market categories: the primary market of mainstream fashion and the secondary market of plus size fashion. It observes dynamics based on practices and material tools which create symbolic and physical (in)visibility of market categories. This study opens up new perspectives in our efforts to understand market dynamics. First, it shows that categorisation is not only a matter of representations, discourses or social interactions, but also involves material initiatives. Materiality emerges as a tool of visibility and invisibility. Second, this study reveals the stakes of social visibility. Behind physical invisibility (not being seen, being hidden, …) lies social invisibility (not existing socially), which explains the feelings of stigmatization and exclusion among curvaceous women.