The Effects of Construction on the Wear Wrinkling of Dacron®/Wool Suitings

Abstract

This paper describes a systematic investigation of the effects of fabric construction on the wear wrinkling of worsted spun "Dacron" polyester/wool blend fabrics. Variables studied were blend ratio, yarn count, yarn twist, yarn ply, fabric tightness, and fabric weave pattern. The effect of these variables on the wrinkle resistance of fabrics was compared in laboratory tests under controlled atmospheric conditions and in carefully monitored slack wear tests. These studies led to the conclusion that the three major construction factors which determine wear wrinkling are the proportion of polyester fibers, the yarn count, and the weave pattern. Best performance resulted from the use of high blend levels, coarse yams, and long-float weaves. While the absolute performance levels can be modified by changing test conditions (humidity, wearer severity, or recovery time), the over-all conclusions are unaltered. Within the limits of this investigation, interfiber friction, yarn twist, and tightness for a given weave and yarn size (weight) had little effect on wrinkle propensity. These findings are generally consistent with accepted mechanical concepts of fabric behavior.