Impact of the ginning method on fiber quality and textile processing performance of Long Staple Upland cotton

Abstract

With the increased demand for quality and the production of finer, longer and stronger Upland cottons, an increasing proportion of these cottons are ginned on roller gins to preserve and improve fiber quality. However, although the benefits of roller ginning on lint turn out and fiber quality are fairly well understood, it is still unclear whether these improvements translate into improved yarn quality and processing performance. The aim of this research was to compare the impact of saw and roller ginning on Long Staple Upland cotton in a high-production and commercial environment and to evaluate quality and textile processing performance in a commercial textile mill. One field located within the central cotton growing area of Australia was planted with a Long Staple Upland variety, with a number of round modules selected at random from the field and processed by a saw and a rotary knife roller gin. There was a significant difference between the two ginning methods in some of the average fiber results, with the roller ginned fiber longer and more uniform with fewer short fibers and fibrous neps, as well as stronger with higher elongation. These improved fiber properties resulted in significant differences in the fine count combed hosiery ring spun yarn produced. On average the yarn spun from roller ginned cotton was significantly more even with fewer total imperfections, although there was no significant difference in yarn count, strength, elongation and hairiness. There were also no significant differences in terms of processing performance, fabric handle, appearance and strength.