Physical Properties and Processing of Fine Merino Lamb's Wool

Abstract

The effect of wool crimp, independent of fiber diameter, on loose fiber resistance to compression and the handle of fine Merino lamb's and fleece wool was reported in Part II of this series of papers. For staples in which crimp is well defined, there is a good correlation between crimp and fiber curvature. In woolen system processing, a reduction in fiber crimp/curvature results in greater sliver bulk, more even slubbing, hairier yarns, and loftier knitted fabric. A subjective and objective evaluation of knitted and woven fabrics processed from batches combining specially selected individual fleeces illustrates how fabric handle can be engineered through the principal raw wool parameters of fiber curvature and diameter.