In situ characterization of the morphological wrinkling of woven fibrous materials by a mechanical test

Author:

Hu Xiaorui12,Sun Fengxin1ORCID,Wang Qicai3ORCID,Gao Weidong1

Affiliation:

1. Key Laboratory of Eco-textiles, Ministry of Education, Jiangnan University, China

2. Department of Fashion Design, Jiangnan University, China

3. Lutai School of Textile and Apparel, Shandong University of Technology, China

Abstract

Wrinkling is one of the most common flaws of woven fabrics in domestic use and industrial applications. It is necessary to develop an objective evaluation method to quantify the smoothness appearance of fabrics effectively. Herein, a fabric multi-deformation tester (FMDT) was designed to evaluate the smoothness appearance of garment fabrics by one sequential mechanical test, overcoming the main difficulties of the existing visual measurement methods for wrinkling evaluation of fabrics with complex colors and patterns. The k-means clustering algorithm was used to objectively cluster the fabric samples based on the characteristic parameters, including the wrinkle-induced residual force ( F wr), hysteresis distance ( H fr), position deflection ( D fr) and stretching recovery slope ( S tr), from the testing curve and the thickness and weight of fabrics, and comparisons with subjective evaluation were also conducted. The results reveal that the k-means clustering is able to classify the smoothness appearance of fabrics using the selected characteristic parameters, showing a good consistency with the subjective clustering results. The feasibility of using the mechanical and deformation properties of textiles to characterize fabric smoothness appearance is proved, and the FMDT provides a potential method to analyze the wrinkling of fibrous materials in a convenient way.

Funder

Postdoctoral Science Foundation of China

Natural Science Foundation of Jiangsu Province

National Natural Science Foundation of China

Fundamental Research Foundation for the Central Universities

Publisher

SAGE Publications

Subject

Polymers and Plastics,Chemical Engineering (miscellaneous)

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