A Controlled Experiment on Yarn Hairiness and Fabric Pilling

Abstract

This study focused on the hairiness of worsted wool yarns and how it affects the pilling propensity of knitted wool fabrics. Conventional worsted ring spun yarns were compared with comparable SolospunTM yarns and yarns modified with a hairiness reducing air nozzle in the winding process (JetWind). Measurements of yarn hairiness (S3) on the Zweigle G565 hairiness meter showed a reduction in the S3 value of approximately 46% was achieved using SolospunTM ring spinning attachment and a 33% reduction was achieved using the JetWind process. Interestingly, subsequent evaluation of the pilling performance of fabrics made from the SolospunTM spun yarn and JetWind modified yarn showed a half grade and full grade improvement, respectively over a similar fabric made from conventional ring spun yarns. This result suggested that a relatively large reduction in yarn hairiness was needed to achieve a moderate improvement in fabric pilling, and that the nature of yarn hairiness was also a key factor in influencing fabric pilling propensity. It is postulated that the wrapping of surface hairs by the air vortex in the JetWind process may limit the ability of those surface fibers to form fuzz and reach the critical height required for pill formation.