Profiling of expert bouldering routesetters

Abstract

Introduction Bouldering is an Olympic discipline that takes place on low-height climbing structures known as boulders. Routesetters play a critical role in bouldering; they design and set boulders to be climbed, which must be original, safe to climb and adapted to climbers’ levels. Considering the critical role routesetters play to keep the present success and ensure the future development of bouldering, the purpose of this study was to profile expert routesetters by identifying relevant key skills they possess and examining specific strategies they use when designing boulders. Methods Seventy-eight expert routesetters completed an online survey structured in eight sections that assessed the following: perceptual–cognitive skills; soft skills; motor skills; climbing skills; welfare; safety and difficulty; climbing holds and wall features; and climbing movement diversity and boulder styles. Results Among fundamental skills experts identified, most relevant to routesetters were possessing a broad climbing movement repertoire, the ability to develop several climbing strategies for one boulder, forecasting of climbing movements, climbing-specific decision-making and creativity, self-reflection, teamwork, dealing with negative feedback, technical skills and general fitness. Furthermore, most relevant specific routesetter skills and strategies appeared to encompass the ability to design boulders that account for climbers’ skill levels and safety, to adapt to the constraints of climbing gyms, to make optimal use of climbing wall features and to design versatile climbing movements. Conclusion The expert routesetters’ profile comprises fundamental and specific skills and strategies that enable them to design target-oriented boulders with versatile climbing movements for different levels whilst accounting for climbers’ welfare.