Volatiles of French Ferns and “fougère” Scent in Perfumery

Abstract

Six French ferns were investigated for volatile organic compounds (VOC) by GC-MS using organic solvent extraction. Seventy-seven VOC biosynthesized from the shikimic, lipidic and terpenic pathways, including isoprenoid derivatives, were identified from these putative natural resources. Asplenium trichomanes subsp. trichomanes contained mainly polyketides with an oily or waxy odor. ( E)-2-Hexenal and ( Z)-3-hexenol, responsible for the “green odor”, were found in high contents in Polystichum setiferum, Dryopteris dilatata and Phegopteris connectilis. In the last, 7.4% of coumarin with a cut hay scent was highlighted from the volatile fraction. ( E)-3-Hexenoic acid and ( E)-2-hexenoic acid, both with herbal and fruity notes, were identified in Gymnocarpium dryopteris and Pteridium aquilinum. 1-Octen-3-ol, well-known for its mushroom-like odor, was abundant in all analyzed French ferns. While the “fougère” fragrance is claimed by the perfumers to be a fantasy scent, coumarin, ( E)-2-hexenal, ( Z)-3-hexenol and 1-octen-3-ol are the main odorous components of the perfumes belonging to the fougère accord family. This suggests that the fougère scent from the perfumers’ imagination is a natural fragrance.