Resinoid from cape gooseberry fruit (Physalis peruviana L.) - volatile composition and application as an active ingredient in a cosmetic formulation

Abstract

Cape gooseberry (Physalis peruviana L.), an exotic fruit gaining popularity in Bulgaria, has been recognized as a highly functional food, but has also the potential to be a resource for the fragrance and cosmetic industries. The main objective of this study was to assess the potential of the resinoid (a type of traditional aromatic products) obtained from locally-produced fruit (variety “Plovdiv”) for use in cosmetics, by revealing its volatile composition and characterizing the properties of an author-developed resinoid- enriched cosmetic cream. The resinoid (yield 58.78% DW) was a dark-orange viscous mass, with fruity, caramel notes and smoke accords odor. The GC-MS analysis identified 44 volatiles (98.69%), representing carbohydrates, alcohols, acids, along with minor miscellaneous compounds. A cosmetic cream (O/W emulsion) was developed, incorporating fruit resinoid (1.00%) as an active ingredient, compared to a control sample. Resinoid inclusion affected positively the sensory and physico-chemical properties of the cosmetic cream (color, odor, pH, stability). The studied emulsions had the rheological behavior of pseudoplastic non-Newtonian fluids, and resinoid presence reduced cream viscosity. It could be concluded that Cape gooseberry fruit resinoid had the potential to be a reasonable ingredient in cosmetic preparations; of course, further research is needed to assess its complex effects.