Kanduras ‘Khaleeji style’: Investigating Gulf masculinities and dress

Abstract

Far more research is dedicated to assessing women’s fashioned bodies than for men’s in the Middle East and particularly in Gulf countries. Across the Gulf, male national citizens typically wear a long ‘dress-like’ garment, with regionally designated names of <roman>kandura</roman><roman>, dish-dasha</roman> or <roman>thobe</roman>, and in colours delineated depending on the particular GCC state. Particularly focusing on the United Arab Emirates, I investigate how the <roman>kandura</roman>, when combined with the <roman>ghutra</roman> (white headscarf) and <roman>agal</roman> (black rope with tassels), becomes representational of national hegemonic masculinity and performatively styled to underline cultural authority and authenticity. These garments are deemed traditional attire, but on a closer inspection, they act as sites to investigate coded signs of cultural fashion capital and ‘local’ tastes. This article critically unpacks these constructs and their meanings for Khaleeji masculinity by examining three main ‘spaces’ ‐ work, leisure and military national service ‐ to scrutinize how the gender politics of space operates on men’s dressed body practices and underpins an emblematic presentation of privilege and patriotic manhood.