Evaluating methods to achieve raw material transparency in fashion supply chains: A focus on cotton

Abstract

The global cotton and fashion industries are complex, inherently opaque and environmentally and socially exploitative. This is because of a long history of colonial practices founded in the cotton industry and a current fashion industry that is dominated by bottom-line focused large brands. Fashion supply chain transparency is needed to address the myriad of issues plaguing the fashion industry. As a tool for reaching a fair, just and sustainable fashion industry, transparency is a necessary step in reaching an accountable supply chain from the raw material level all the way to the retailer. The goal of this study is to identify the most impactful methods for increasing transparency throughout the entire fashion supply chain. Through in-depth, qualitative interviews with industry experts, six key areas were identified as methods for increasing transparency to the raw material (tier 4 or 5 level) and reducing risk within the fashion supply chain. These include restructuring of the cotton commodity market, the need for technology, increasing brand investment, trust and honesty, the need for policy, reduction of cotton certification reliance and the intervention of cotton advocacy organizations. Additionally, this research also brings to light a lack of real progress towards large-scale change within the industry and found that there is a need for complete structural change to both the cotton commodity market and the fashion supply chain if the goal of reaching a fair, just and sustainable fashion industry is to be possible.