A Theoretical Explanation of the Fetch- and Duration-Limited Laws

Author:

Fontaine Emmanuel1

Affiliation:

1. AMOG Consulting, Notting Hill, Victoria, Australia

Abstract

Abstract The evolution of wind-induced ocean waves is studied theoretically. The modeling assumes that wave groups evolve independently of each other in a state of local equilibrium between wind-pumping- and wave-breaking-induced dissipation. The well-known fetch and duration laws appear as natural solutions of the model in the case of a constant wind speed. The link between the fetch and duration laws is explained, and the results are successfully validated against various experimental data.

Publisher

American Meteorological Society

Subject

Oceanography

Reference46 articles.

1. A theory of steady breakers;Cointe;J. Fluid Mech.,1994

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