A Procedure for Rapidly Forecasting Ocean Swell

Abstract

A procedure, based on the work of Sverdrup and Munk, is described by which swell characteristics may be forecast rapidly. Specific wave generating areas defined by the fixed parameters, wind duration and fetch, and the variable parameter, wind velocity, are established. The change in swell characteristics as the swell moves away from these generating areas is illustrated by graphs which may be re-drafted as transparent overlays at the scale of the synoptic weather chart from which swell forecasts are to be made.