Identification of wave breaking from nearshore wave-by-wave records-Reference-Cited by-同舟云学术

Identification of wave breaking from nearshore wave-by-wave records

Published:2023-09-01 Issue:9 Volume:35 Page:
ISSN:1070-6631
Container-title:Physics of Fluids
language:en
Short-container-title:

Author:

Holand K.¹^ORCID,Kalisch H.¹^ORCID,Bjørnestad M.²^ORCID,Streßer M.³^ORCID,Buckley M.³^ORCID,Horstmann J.³^ORCID,Roeber V.⁴^ORCID,Carrasco-Alvarez R.³^ORCID,Cysewski M.³^ORCID,Frøysa H. G.⁵

Affiliation:

1. Department of Mathematics, University of Bergen 1 , PO Box 7800, 5020 Bergen, Norway

2. The Norwegian Meteorological Institute 2 , Allégaten 70, 5007 Bergen, Norway

3. Institute of Coastal Ocean Dynamics, Helmholtz-Zentrum Hereon 3 , Geesthacht, Germany

4. Université de Pau et des Pays de l'Adour, Chair HPC-Waves, SIAME 4 , Anglet, France

5. Aqua Kompetanse AS, Havbruksparken 5 , Storlavika 7, 7770 Flatanger, Norway

Abstract

Using data from a recent field campaign, we evaluate several breaking criteria with the goal of assessing the accuracy of these criteria in wave breaking detection. Two new criteria are also evaluated. An integral parameter is defined in terms of temporal wave trough area, and a differential parameter is defined in terms of maximum steepness of the crest front period. The criteria tested here are based solely on sea surface elevation derived from standard pressure gauge records. They identify breaking and non-breaking waves with an accuracy between 84% and 89% based on the examined field data.

Funder

Norges Forskningsråd

Bergen Universitetsfond

Helmholtz Association

Deutsche Forschungsgemeinschaft

Energy & Environmental Solutions

Communaute d' Agglomeration Pays Basque

Communaute Region Novelle Aquitaine

Publisher

AIP Publishing

Subject

Condensed Matter Physics,Fluid Flow and Transfer Processes,Mechanics of Materials,Computational Mechanics,Mechanical Engineering