Soliton groups and extreme wave occurrence in simulated directional sea waves

Author:

Slunyaev A. V.123ORCID

Affiliation:

1. HSE University 1 , 25 Bolshaya Pechorskaya Street, Nizhny Novgorod 603950, Russia

2. Institute of Applied Physics, RAS 2 , 46 Ulyanov Street, Nizhny Novgorod 603950, Russia

3. V.I. Il'ichev Pacific Oceanological Institute, FEB RAS 3 , 43 Baltiyskaya Street, Vladivostok 690041, Russia

Abstract

The evolution of nonlinear wave groups that can be associated with long-lived soliton-type structures is analyzed, based on the data of numerical simulation of irregular deep-water gravity waves with spectra typical to the ocean and different directional spreading. A procedure of the windowed Inverse Scattering Transform, which reveals wave sequences related to envelope solitons of the nonlinear Schrödinger equation, is proposed and applied to the simulated two-dimensional surfaces. The soliton content of waves with different directional spreading is studied in order to estimate its dynamical role, including characteristic lifetimes. Statistical features of the solitonic part of the water surface are analyzed and compared with the wave field on average. It is shown that intense wave patterns that persist for tens of wave periods can emerge in stochastic fields of relatively long-crested waves. They correspond to regions of locally enhanced on average waves with reduced kurtosis. This eventually leads to realization of locally extreme wave conditions compared to the general background. Although intense soliton-like groups may be detected in short-crested irregular waves as well, they possess much shorter lateral sizes, quickly disperse, and do not influence the local statistical wave properties.

Funder

Ministry of Science and Education of Russia

Foundation for the Advancement of Theoretical Physics and Mathematics

HSE University

Publisher

AIP Publishing

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