Wave-by-wave forecasts in directional seas using nonlinear dispersion corrections

Author:

Meisner Eytan1ORCID,Galvagno Mariano2ORCID,Andrade David23ORCID,Liberzon Dan4ORCID,Stuhlmeier Raphael2ORCID

Affiliation:

1. The Nancy and Stephen Grand Technion Energy Program (GTEP), Technion–Israel Institute of Technology 1 , 3200003 Haifa, Israel

2. Centre for Mathematical Sciences, University of Plymouth 2 , PL4 8AA Plymouth, United Kingdom

3. School of Engineering, Science and Technology, Universidad del Rosario 3 , 111711 Bogotá, Colombia

4. Faculty of Civil and Environmental Engineering, Technion–Israel Institute of Technology 4 , 3200003 Haifa, Israel

Abstract

We develop a new methodology for the deterministic forecasting of directional ocean surface waves based on nonlinear frequency corrections. These frequency corrections can be pre-computed based on measured energy density spectra and, therefore, come at no additional computational cost compared to linear theory. The nonlinear forecasting methodology is tested on highly nonlinear synthetically generated seas with a variety of values of average steepness and directional spreading and is shown to consistently outperform a linear forecast.

Funder

Engineering and Physical Sciences Research Council

Institute of Mathematics and its Applications

Nancy and Stephen Grand Technion Energy Program

Universities UK International

Publisher

AIP Publishing

Subject

Condensed Matter Physics,Fluid Flow and Transfer Processes,Mechanics of Materials,Computational Mechanics,Mechanical Engineering

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