Author:
Koochakzaei Alireza,Oudbashi Omid
Abstract
AbstractThis paper identifies the materials used to make a brocade belt belonging to the Qajar courtiers in Iran. This belt consists of two fabric types: red support and golden brocade. Accordingly, this paper examined the skin and tannin type, fiber types, dyeing agents, mordant, and metal wrapping of brocade yarns and metal buckle. Technical imaging, ESI–MS, FORS, FTIR and SEM–EDS were used to identify the materials. Multi-band imaging methods included Vis, UVL, IRR, and UVR, in which UVFC and IRFC images were obtained after processing. The results showed that cotton yarn was used in both fabrics. The red fabric yarns were dyed using cochineal and alum mordant. Also, the yellow brocade yarns were dyed using catechins-rich plants, and in this dyeing process, polyphenols and alum have been as mordant. Madder-dyed yarns are also found in parts of the belt. Examination of the metal wrapping of brocade yarns suggests using strips of copper-nickel alloy with a thin layer of gold-silver alloy. This secondary coating protects the copper-nickel strips and increases their golden luster. The leather analysis of the leather parts also indicated the using cattle/calfskin tanned with gallotannins. Belt buckle analysis also shows the use of brass alloy with a high percentage of zinc, leading to a golden sheen and the buckle desired strength. The results show the use of low-cost materials in the manufacture of clothing for the lower levels of the Qajar court.
Publisher
Springer Science and Business Media LLC
Subject
Archeology,Archeology,Conservation,Computer Science Applications,Materials Science (miscellaneous),Chemistry (miscellaneous),Spectroscopy
Reference81 articles.
1. Al-Sharairi N, Sandu ICA, Vasilache V, Sandu I. Recognition of natural silk fibers, dyes and metal threads of historical Romanian textile fragments using the multi-analytical techniques approach. Text Res J. 2020;90(15–16):1671–88.
2. Lech K, Witkoś K, Wileńska B, Jarosz M. Identification of unknown colorants in pre-Columbian textiles dyed with American cochineal (Dactylopius coccus Costa) using high-performance liquid chromatography and tandem mass spectrometry. Anal Bioanal Chem. 2015;407(3):855–67.
3. Koochakzaei A, Mohammadi Achachluei M, Saidi MM. Identification of fibers and weaving technology in the remains of fabrics discovered from Kuh-e Khwaja, a Parthian archaeological site in Sistan, Iran. J Anc Hist Archaeol. 2021;8(3):148–55.
4. Pozzi F, Poldi G, Bruni S, De Luca E, Guglielmi V. Multi-technique characterization of dyes in ancient Kaitag textiles from Caucasus. Archaeol Anthropol Sci. 2012;4(3):185–97.
5. Balakina GG, Vasiliev VG, Karpova EV, Mamatyuk VI. HPLC and molecular spectroscopic investigations of the red dye obtained from an ancient Pazyryk textile. Dyes Pigm. 2006;71(1):54–60.
Cited by
6 articles.
订阅此论文施引文献
订阅此论文施引文献，注册后可以免费订阅5篇论文的施引文献，订阅后可以查看论文全部施引文献