Long–wave forcing by the breaking of random gravity waves on a beach
Author:
Affiliation:
1. Department of Civil Engineering, University of Queensland, St Lucia, Queensland 4072, Australia
2. Institute of Marine Studies, University of Plymouth, Drake Circus, Plymouth PL4 8AA, UK
Publisher
The Royal Society
Subject
General Physics and Astronomy,General Engineering,General Mathematics
Link
https://royalsocietypublishing.org/doi/pdf/10.1098/rspa.2002.0962
Reference59 articles.
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3. Barthel V. Mansard E. P. D. Sand S. E. & Vis F. C. 1983 Group-bounded long waves in physical models. Ocean Engng 10 261{294.
4. Surf-Zone Dynamics
5. Bendat J. S. & Piersol A. G. 1986 Random data analysis and measurement procedures. Wiley.
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