Exploring a cost-effective and straightforward mechanism for uninterrupted in situ maximum wave runup measurements

Abstract

Wave runup, the excess water level above mean sea level, has been measured using different techniques with varying degrees of precision and associated practical limitations. This critical parameter, typically included in coastal assessment studies, varies temporally and spatially and depends on variables that include beach characteristics and nearshore hydrodynamics. Access to continuous datasets, using efficient mechanisms can assist resource-limited regions, such as Caribbean small-island developing states (SIDS), in overcoming coastal resilience obstacles. Experiments were conducted at University College London (UCL) and the University of the West Indies (UWI), which were designed to explore the temporal behaviour of the water surface within the bed during runup events. The experiments encompassed linear waves impacting a static porous bed (UCL) and a moveable granular beach (UWI), with pressure sensors buried at the base of each beach. The analyses showed that the averaged values of the time-varying water elevations within the bed, when spatially presented, produced a quadratic or cubic polynomial fit, where the curves’ stationary points were accurate indicators of the location of the maximum runup position at the surface of the bed. In this way, an arrangement of buried pressure sensors can be used as an efficient means to accurately produce a continuous time series of maximum runup positions. This article is part of the theme issue ‘Celebrating the 15th anniversary of the Royal Society Newton International Fellowship’.