Abstract
This paper presents the results of experiments on breaking waves produced by towing a submerged, two-dimensional hydrofoil at constant depth and speed. The wave field consists of a breaker followed by a train of lower, non-breaking waves. The breaker has a small zone of turbulent water riding its forward slope; this zone is called the breaking region. Measurements were made of surface height profiles, the vertical distribution of mean horizontal velocity in the wake of the wave, and the vertical thickness of the wake. The results support the hypothesis that the breaking region imparts a shearing force along the forward slope equal to the component of its weight in that direction. The force produces a turbulent, momentum-deficient wake similar to the wake of a towed, two-dimensional body in an infinite fluid. The vertical thickness of the wake grows in proportion to the square root of distance behind the breaker. The momentum deficit is approximately equal to the maximum momentum flux of a Stokes wave with the same phase speed as the breaker. The surface profile measurements yield several results: the proper independent variables describing the wave are its speed and the slope of its forward face. The relation between breaking wavelength and speed follows the finite-amplitude Stokes wave equation. The amplitude and the vertical extent of the breaking region are both proportional to the phase speed squared; however, they are not functions of the slope of the forward face of the wave. The breaking region has a small oscillation in its length with a regular period of 4.4 the period of a wave with phase speed equal to the hydrofoil speed. The amplitude of the oscillation diminishes with time. It is believed that this oscillation is due to wave components produced when the foil is started from rest.
Reference16 articles.
1. B attjes J . A. & Sakai T. 1980 A b stra c t from In t. Conf. Coastal Sydney A ustralia M arch 1980 pp. 370-371. In s titu tio n of E ngineers A u stralia.
2. D onelan M. A. 1977 W hitecaps a n d m o m en tu m tran sfer. Turbulent fluxes through the sea surface wave dynamics and prediction (ed. A. F a v re & K . H asselm ann) pp. 273-287. New Y ork: Plenum Press.
3. D uncan J . H . 1978 The dynam ics of break in g surface waves. D octoral d issertatio n T he Jo h n s H opkins U niversity B altim ore M aryland.
4. K jeldsen S. P. & Olsen G. B. 1971 B reaking w aves (16 m m film). T echnical U n IV ersity of D enm ark L yngby.
5. L am b H . 1945 Hydrodynamics.New Y o rk : D over Publications.
Cited by
290 articles.
订阅此论文施引文献
订阅此论文施引文献,注册后可以免费订阅5篇论文的施引文献,订阅后可以查看论文全部施引文献