Of Royal Mantles and Blue Turquoise: The Meaning of the Mexica Emperor's Mantle

Abstract

This article argues that the Mexica emperor's mantle was a fiber net rectangle studded with actual turquoise beads or plaques, a conclusion that is contrary to technically based interpretations of the garment as a tie-dyed cotton cape. The purpose of making this distinction is to increase our understanding of the symbolism embodied by Mexica costume within a cultural and historical context. Known as xiuhtlalpiltilmatl in Nahuatl, the mantle is said to have had its origins in Toltec times. Later it was worn mainly by Mexica emperors at accession and other ceremonies to symbolize continuity with their Toltec and Chichimec predecessors. Within the context of Mexica ideology, the garment served this symbolic purpose through its very materials: the rough agave net alludes to nomadic Chichimec warriors of the desert, while turquoise refers to the civilized, sedentary, agriculturally based Toltec peoples.