Hawaiian Barkcloth from the Bishop Museum Collections: A Characterization of Materials and Techniques in Collaboration with Modern Practitioners to Effect Preservation of a Traditional Cultural Practice

Abstract

ABSTRACTHawaiian barkcloth (‘kapa’) is a traditional fabric made from beaten plant fibers. Because of its function in both utilitarian and chiefly ornaments, kapa is intimately tied to the history and traditions of Hawai’i. In the 19th century kapa was gradually replaced with imported textiles and the practice was lost. The traditional methods used to manufacture kapa are now only known from historic descriptions by early missionaries and explorers. Since the 1970s, cultural practitioners began an effort to revive this artform and are experimenting with materials and techniques to reproduce kapa with the quality of historic artifacts.Research has been undertaken at the Bishop Museum using a multi-analytical approach to determine the colorants. The Bishop Museum holds the world’s best collection of kapa, including some of the earliest pieces collected from Cook’s voyage in the 18th century. The research has focused on a comprehensive survey of over 150 pieces of kapa with x-ray fluorescence spectroscopy (XRF). In some cases, samples were removed and analyzed with UV-Vis-NIR fiber optics reflectance spectroscopy, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) and chromatographic techniques, including high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). Scientific results document the use of traditional pigments and dyes as well as the incorporation of imported materials in the 19th century. Results are interpreted by period, design and use, as well as within the context of historic descriptions. An important aspect of this work is close collaboration with cultural practitioners experienced fabrication methods that have been successful in the recreation of kapa. With continued research, the goal is to ultimately gain a greater knowledge of historic materials and techniques for the continuation of this important tradition.