Evaluating the Dermatological Benefits of Snowberry (Symphoricarpos albus): A Comparative Analysis of Extracts and Fermented Products from Different Plant Parts

Abstract

Skin ageing is influenced by both intrinsic and extrinsic factors, with excessive ultraviolet (UV) exposure being a significant contributor. Such exposure can lead to moisture loss, sagging, increased wrinkling, and decreased skin elasticity. Prolonged UV exposure negatively impacts the extracellular matrix by reducing collagen, hyaluronic acid, and aquaporin 3 (AQP-3) levels. Fermentation, which involves microorganisms, can produce and transform beneficial substances for human health. Natural product fermentation using lactic acid bacteria have demonstrated antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, whitening, and anti-wrinkle properties. Snowberry, traditionally used as an antiemetic, purgative, and anti-inflammatory agent, is now also used as an immune stimulant and for treating digestive disorders and colds. However, research on the skin benefits of Fermented Snowberry Extracts remains limited. Thus, we aimed to evaluate the skin benefits of snowberry by investigating its moisturising and anti-wrinkle effects, comparing extracts from different parts of the snowberry plant with those subjected to fermentation using Lactobacillus plantarum. Chlorophyll-free extracts were prepared from various parts of the snowberry plant, and ferments were created using Lactobacillus plantarum. The extracts and ferments were analysed using high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) to determine and compare their chemical compositions. Moisturising and anti-ageing tests were conducted to assess the efficacy of the extracts and ferments on the skin. The gallic acid content remained unchanged across all parts of the snowberry before and after fermentation. However, Fermented Snowberry Leaf Extracts exhibited a slight decrease in chlorogenic acid content but a significant increase in ferulic acid content. The Fermented Snowberry Fruit Extract demonstrated increased chlorogenic acid and a notable rise in ferulic acid compared to its non-fermented counterpart. Skin efficacy tests revealed that Fermented Snowberry Leaf and Fruit Extracts enhanced the expression of AQP-3, HAS-3, and COL1A1. These extracts exhibited distinct phenolic component profiles, indicating potential skin benefits such as improved moisture retention and protection against ageing. These findings suggest that Fermented Snowberry Extracts could be developed into effective skincare products, providing a natural alternative for enhancing skin hydration and reducing signs of ageing.