Wave Dissipation and Sediment Transport Patterns during Shoreface Nourishment towards Equilibrium

Abstract

Implementing shoreface nourishment is an effective method to protect sandy beaches. A better understanding of the equilibrium mechanism of shoreface nourishments is necessary for coastal engineering designs and constructions. Two experiments on the beach profile equilibrium of the shoreface nourishment are carried out under mild wave conditions on the reflective and intermediate beach. It is observed that the shoreface nourishment increases local wave height and strengthens wave nonlinearity by its shallow water depth. The most intense wave breaking dissipation has been found on the crest of the shoreface nourishment, and the distribution of wave energy dissipation rate is more uniform on the quasi-equilibrium profile than that on the initial profile. A process-based numerical model is used to reproduce bed profile evolution successfully. On that basis, it is found that onshore bedload transport is the primary cause for the onshore migration of the shoreface nourishment. The magnitude of bedload transport decreases during the evolution of the shoreface nourishment towards equilibrium. The most intense sediment transport rate occurs over the shoreface nourishment or in front of the shoreline, depending on the ’lee effect’ of the nourishment. Furthermore, the effects of incident wave height, wave period, and sea-level rise on the equilibrium profile of the shoreface nourishment under mild wave conditions are analyzed.