Barriers and Drivers for Changes in Circular Business Models in a Textile Recycling Sector: Results of Qualitative Empirical Research

Abstract

The growing environmental problems associated with the dumping of large amounts of textile waste and the demand for circular products are prompting textile waste recycling enterprises to develop circular business models (CBMs). This implies a radical change in the way some enterprises operate to obtain growth. Considering the importance of the drivers of and barriers for the adoption and implementation of CBMs in the textile recycling sector, it is claimed that the comprehension of these factors to CBMs is limited and deserves more attention in empirical research. Therefore, our research investigates the antecedents of circular business models in the textile recycling sector by highlighting influencing factors. The aim of the article is to explore the main enhancing and inhibiting factors in the development of circular business models on the example of a large enterprise operating for 30 years in the textile recycling sector. In this study, a case study design of mixed methods, including semi-structured interviews with a business practitioner and the data presented on the websites of the surveyed enterprise, is used. The results suggest that main enhancing factors are relevant regulations at the European level, appropriate technologies and digitisation, and increasing social and environmental awareness of consumers and managerial capabilities. However, inhibiting factors are supply chain complexity and supply chain collaboration in connection with a large scale of business in crisis situations, a large scope and range of geographic diversification of outlets in the perspective of the consequences of the information gap, and readiness to take the so-called “being the first in the market” risk. In practice, this means that general drivers of the CBMs may facilitate the reuse of second-hand clothing and recycling of textiles for other new products as the primary CE action. On the other hand, enterprises have to overcome a number of technological barriers, and in the case of the textile recycling sector, it is necessary to understand which barriers they face to take appropriate actions. Research findings indicate factors that may be the subject of intervention or support of managers or policymakers. This study has practical implications and suggests future study paths.