Standardized Pomegranate (Pomella®) and Red Maple (Maplifa®) Extracts and Their Phenolics Protect Type I Collagen by the Inhibition of Matrix Metalloproteinases, Collagenase, and Collagen Cross-Linking

Abstract

Phenolics enriched pomegranate fruit (Pomella®) and red maple leaf (Maplifa®) extracts and their major phenolic constituents have demonstrated beneficial skin effects through the protection of human skin keratinocytes from oxidative-stress-induced damage. However, their mechanisms of protection of cutaneous collagen are still unclear. Herein, the collagen protective effects of Pomella® and Maplifa®, and their major bioactive phytochemicals, namely, punicalagin (PA) and ginnalin A (GA), respectively, were evaluated using enzymatic assays including collagenase, anti-glycation and cell-based models as well as computational methods. The importance of the modulatory effects was validated at the protein level for type I collagen and matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) using human-skin-derived keratinocytes. The synergistic collagenase inhibitory effects upon combinations of Pomella® + Maplifa® and PA + GA at a combination ratio of 1:2 and 1:1, respectively, were evaluated using their combination index (CI; a well-established assessment of synergism). Pomella® (50–400 µg/mL), Maplifa® (100–800 µg/mL), PA (50–400 µM), and GA (50–400 µM) dose-dependently inhibited collagenase activity by 26.3–86.3%, 25.7–94.0%, 26.2–94.0%, and 12.0–98.0%, respectively. The CI of the anti-collagenase activity of Pomella® and Maplifa® ranged from 0.53–0.90, while that of PA and GA (12.5/12.5 and 25/25 µM) ranged from 0.66 and 0.69, respectively, suggesting a synergistic inhibitory effect. Interestingly, in the cell-based assays by Western blotting, Pomella® and Maplifa® reduced the protein expression levels of collagen degradation enzymes (MMPs), while simultaneously increasing that of type I collagen in epidermoid carcinoma A431 cells. This is the first report to show that these extracts exert synergistic collagen protective effects. Taken together, these findings provide molecular insights into the usefulness of Pomella® and Maplifa® or their phenolics as bioactive ingredients for skin care products to slow down aging and enhance skin tone.