Abstract
Numerical tests are performed to investigate wave transformations of nonlinear nonbreaking regular waves with normal incidence to the shore in decreasing and increasing water depth. The wave height transformation (shoaling) of nonlinear waves can, just as for linear waves, be described by conservation of the mechanical energy flux. The numerical tests show that the mechanical energy flux for nonlinear waves on sloping foreshores is well described by stream function wave theory for horizontal foreshore. Thus, this theory can be used to estimate the shoaled wave height. Furthermore, the amplitude and the celerity of the wave components of nonlinear waves on mildly sloping foreshores can also be predicted with the stream function wave theory. The tests also show that waves propagating to deeper water (de-shoaling) on a very gentle foreshore with a slope of cot(β) = 1200 can be described in the same way as shoaling waves. For de-shoaling on steeper foreshores, free waves are released leading to waves that are not of constant form and thus cannot be modelled by the proposed approach.
Subject
Ocean Engineering,Water Science and Technology,Civil and Structural Engineering
Reference36 articles.
1. Estimation of incident and reflected waves in random wave experiment;Goda,1976
2. The measurement of incident and reflected spectra using a least squares method;Mansard,1980
3. Estimating incident and eeflected wave fields using an arbitrary number of wave gauges;Zelt,1992
4. A time-domain method for separating incident and reflected irregular waves
5. Estimation of Incident and Reflected Waves Using Simulated Annealing
Cited by
7 articles.
订阅此论文施引文献
订阅此论文施引文献,注册后可以免费订阅5篇论文的施引文献,订阅后可以查看论文全部施引文献