On the Indirect Estimation of Wind Wave Heights over the Southern Coasts of Caspian Sea: A Comparative Analysis

Abstract

The prediction of ocean waves is a highly challenging task in coastal and water engineering in general due to their very high randomness. In the present case study, an analysis of wind, sea flow features, and wave height in the southern coasts of the Caspian Sea, especially in the off-coast sea waters of Mazandaran Province in Northern Iran, was performed. Satellite altimetry-based significant wave heights associated with the period of observation in 2016 were validated based on those measured at a buoy station in the same year. The comparative analysis between them showed that satellite-based wave heights are highly correlated to buoy data, as testified by a high coefficient of correlation r (0.87), low Bias (0.063 m), and root-mean-squared error (0.071 m). It was possible to assess that the dominant wave direction in the study area was northwest. Considering the main factors affecting wind-induced waves, the atmospheric framework in the examined sea region with high pressure was identified as the main factor to be taken into account in the formation of waves. The outcomes of the present research provide an interesting methodological tool for obtaining and processing accurate wave height estimations in such an intricate flow playground as the southern coasts of the Caspian Sea.