Progress in Tsunami Science: Toward an Improved Integration of Hydrodynamical Modeling and Geomorphic Field Evidence

Abstract

Risks posed by sea-level rise and cyclones are becoming more prevalent along the world’s coastlines. In recent years, tsunamis have had devastating impacts on communities in different ocean basins. Although storms and tsunamis can be clearly distinguished when they occur in the present, this does not apply to the past, from which only their traces in the form of sedimentary or geomorphologic features provide clues about their occurrence. Following a short review of research on tsunamis from the last decades, this study uses the example of coastal boulder deposits to highlight where knowledge gaps exist. This report focuses on the spatial distribution of sediment patterns and how these may provide clues to the transport processes. However, the history of these deposits and related sea-level records during the same time span must also be recorded and contextualized. Theoretical modeling results without including these parameters will remain fuzzy, if not inaccurate. This contribution points to the need for consideration of both data and nature’s reality (which are complementary and interdependent) in this field.