Efficacy, Tolerability, and Face Lipidomic Modification of New Regimen with Cleanser and Corrective Serum in Women with Acne-Prone Skin

Abstract

Acne-prone skin is a common condition in adult women, and skin imperfections could affect quality of life and self-esteem. This study aimed to investigate the efficacy of a cosmetic combination regimen for face care (a cleanser gel and a serum containing niacinamide, retinol, and alpha hydroxy acids). A total of 20 women with acne-prone mixed or oily skin were enrolled in a prospective 42-day trial. Sebum content, skin radiance, skin profilometry, and evaluation of face area occupied by pores were evaluated at baseline and after 14, 28, and 42 days. In addition, a face lipidomic evaluation was performed at baseline and after 42 days. Finally, self-assessment questionnaires at each visit checkpoint were performed to evaluate efficacy and tolerability of the tested products. All the subjects but one concluded the study. Both products were very well tolerated and 84% of the subjects reported a global clinical improvement. Skin sebum content was significantly (p < 0.05) reduced at each of the evaluation time points (−9.9% at day 14, −19.4% at day 28, and −23.7% at day 42). The tested regimen significantly decreased the gloss parameter (mattifying effect) at day 14, 28, and 42, with a maximum reduction of 7.2% at the end of the study period. The pores area demonstrated a significant reduction at each of the checkpoint evaluations in comparison with baseline. Inflammatory and non-inflammatory lesions were significantly reduced by 16% at day 28 and day 42 (p < 0.01). Lipidomic analysis demonstrated that this cosmetic face care regimen induced significant and positive effects in face sebum lipids composition, characterized by a significant increase in ceramides and triacylglycerols and a decrease in fatty acids and oxidized fatty acids.