Formulation and Characterization of Niacinamide and Collagen Emulsion and Its Investigation as a Potential Cosmeceutical Product

Author:

Dănilă Elena1,Kaya Durmuș Alpaslan2,Anuța Valentina34ORCID,Popa Lăcrămioara34ORCID,Coman Alina Elena1ORCID,Chelaru Ciprian1,Constantinescu Rodica Roxana1,Dinu-Pîrvu Cristina34,Albu Kaya Mădălina Georgiana1ORCID,Ghica Mihaela Violeta34ORCID

Affiliation:

1. INCDTP—Division Leather and Footwear Research Institute, 93 Ion Minulescu Str., 031215 Bucharest, Romania

2. Department of Field Crops, Faculty of Agriculture, Hatay Mustafa Kemal University, 31034 Antakya-Hatay, Turkey

3. Department of Physical and Colloidal Chemistry, Faculty of Pharmacy, “Carol Davila” University of Medicine and Pharmacy, 6 Traian Vuia Str., 020956 Bucharest, Romania

4. Innovative Therapeutic Structures R&D Center (InnoTher), “Carol Davila” University of Medicine and Pharmacy, 6 Traian Vuia Str., 020956 Bucharest, Romania

Abstract

Cosmeceuticals are one of the fast-growing areas of the natural personal care industry. Cosmeceuticals are cosmetic products with medicinal or drug-like benefits that can affect the biological functioning of the skin depending on the ingredients in the composition. The development of one formulation acting on the dermis and stimulating the collagen production is very important for the hydration of the skin. The association of collagen with other ingredients can have a positive effect on increasing the natural production of collagen in the skin. An example of such an ingredient is niacinamide, which, having a recognized nutritional value, has been quite recently studied. Considering these aspects, this study focused on developing oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions, based on natural ingredients (vegetable oils, floral waters, and essential oils) and hydrolyzed collagen and niacinamide as active ingredients, and on evaluating the stability, pH, optical, superficial, rheological and textural properties, as well as microbiological tests of the emulsions, in order to investigate their potential as a cosmeceutical product. All the obtained emulsions proved to be stable at variable temperatures and had a pH value compatible with natural pH of the skin, allowing their safe application. Over goniometric analysis, a partial wetting and a hydrophilic character of the emulsions were emphasized. Following the rheological analyses, all dermatocosmetic emulsions exhibited non-Newtonian pseudoplastic behavior and a thixotropic character, these properties being very important for their production process and their application on the skin surface to generate an optimal therapeutic effect. The textural characteristics recorded for all emulsions indicated adequate spreadability at the application site. All tested samples respected the Pharmacopoeia limits of microbiological contamination. All prepared emulsions have good stability, are safe for the skin and have appropriate physicochemical and microbiological characteristics; therefore, they can be used as a cosmeceutical product.

Funder

Ministry of Research, Innovation and Digitalization

“Carol Davila” University of Medicine and Pharmacy

Publisher

MDPI AG

Reference60 articles.

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