Pharmacy and Fragrances: Traditional and Current Use of Plants and Their Extracts
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Published:2023-11-15
Issue:6
Volume:10
Page:157
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ISSN:2079-9284
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Container-title:Cosmetics
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language:en
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Short-container-title:Cosmetics
Author:
González-Minero Francisco José1ORCID, Bravo-Díaz Luis2, Moreno-Toral Esteban3ORCID
Affiliation:
1. Department of Plant Biology and Ecology, Botanical Section, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Seville, C/García González, 2, 41012 Seville, Spain 2. Academy Iberoamerican of Pharmacy, Department of Pharmacology, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Seville, C/García González, 2, 41012 Seville, Spain 3. Department of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Technology, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Seville, C/García González, 2, 41012 Seville, Spain
Abstract
This paper aims to establish a current relationship between pharmaceutical sciences andthe development of perfumes and fragrances, which bring significant economic benefits. For this purpose, historical data are used as a starting point, and galenic, chemical and botanical aspects are discussed in a transversal way. Sources such as Web of Science (WOS) and databases such as Scopus, monographs and various web pages (where scientific–technical documents appear) were used. The results and discussion are based on the selection of the 50 plant species most commonly used in high-quality fragrances. Therefore, this publication should be considered an approach to this subject based on an analysis of a representative sample of data. Some characteristics of perfumes (classification according to the concentration of essential oils and combination of plant extracts) are presented beforehand. The main focus of this work is the botanical and chemical analysis of these described plants, pointing out their common name, correct botanical name, geographical place of origin, used part of the plant and main molecules. The most significant families are aromatic: Rutaceae, Lamiaceae (16.7%) and Apiaceae. The most represented genus is Citrus (with seven species or hybrids). However, it should be noted that natural extracts of good quality natural fragrances may be supplemented with chemically synthesized molecules. Of the 50 botanical species selected, 84% of the extracts have their origin in Tropical Asia, the Middle East and the Mediterranean region. This figure generally coincides with the percentage of medicinal plants (or their extracts) admitted by the European Pharmacopoeia. All parts of a plant (depending on which one it is) can be a source of molecules for the elaboration of these products. The most commonly used parts to obtain extracts are flowers and leaves, a biological circumstance that is explained in this work. In this work, 110 molecules have been found that are part of the essences of perfumes and fragrances; the most frequent are linalool, limonene, 1,8-cineole, eugenol and derivatives, geraniol, vanillin and derivatives, β-caryophyllene, p-cymene, and farnesene and derivatives. However, in order to elaborate a quality perfume, many other molecules must be taken into account, according to the creative experience of the perfumer, which is subject to confidentiality, and chemical analysis according to current legislation, which would avoid fraud, allergy and dermatitis problems.
Subject
Dermatology,Pharmaceutical Science,Aging,Chemical Engineering (miscellaneous),Surgery
Reference79 articles.
1. González-Minero, F.J., and Bravo-Díaz, L. (2018). The Use of Plants in Skin-Care Products, Cosmetics and Fragrances: Past and Present. Cosmetics, 5. 2. Neuroimaging evidence for the emotional potency of odor-evoked memory;Herz;Neuropsychologia,2004 3. Helicon (2006). Hutchinson Dictionary of Word Origins, Helicon Publishing. 4. (2023, April 23). International Fragrance Association (IFRA). Available online: https://ifrafragrance.org/home. 5. (2023, July 01). Economy of Cosmetics. Available online: https://www.oxfordeconomics.com/resource/the-economic-impact-of-the-fragrance-industry/.
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