Analysis of Depigmenting Substances of Interest (Hydroquinone, Kojic Acid, and Clobetasol Propionate) Contained in Lightening Cosmetic Products Marketed in Burkina Faso

Author:

Yaméogo Boumbéwendin Gérard Josias12,Ilboudo Lydiane Sandra B. A.1,Ouédraogo Nomtondo Amina3,Belem Mohamed2,Nikiema Ouéogo2,Goumbri Bertrand W.2,Sombié Bavouma Charles1,Zimé-Diawara Hermine1,Kabré Elie2,Semdé Rasmané1ORCID

Affiliation:

1. Drug Development Laboratory (LADME), Center for Training, Research and Expertise in Medicine Sciences (CEA-CFOREM), Doctoral School of Sciences and Health (ED2S), University Joseph KI-ZERBO, Ouagadougou 03 BP 7021, Burkina Faso

2. National Agency for Health Safety of the Environment, Food, Work and Health Products (ANSSEAT), Ministry of Health, Ouagadougou 09 BP 24, Burkina Faso

3. Service of Dermatology-Venereology, University Hospital Center Yalgado Ouédraogo, University Joseph KI-ZERBO, Ouagadougou 03 BP 7021, Burkina Faso

Abstract

The practice of voluntary depigmentation is still prevalent in Africa, with a wide range of lightening cosmetics used. Our objective was to research and quantify three regulated and/or prohibited depigmenting ingredients present in lightening cosmetics sold in Ouagadougou. Twenty-nine lightening cosmetic samples were collected from vendors and HPLC analysis was subsequently conducted to identify and measure the concentrations of hydroquinone, clobetasol propionate, and kojic acid. The presence of hydroquinone was indicated on the label of 13.79% of the products, while 51.72% contained it after analysis. Furthermore, none of the products mentioned a concentration of hydroquinone exceeding 2.00%, even though 27.58% of them contained high concentrations. For clobetasol propionate, its presence was stated on the labels of 13.79% of the products, while 31.03% contained it. One sample had a clobetasol content exceeding 0.05%, although none mentioned a concentration higher than this value. Finally, while 24.13% of the samples claimed to contain kojic acid, only 17.24% did. We also observed that 41.38% of the samples contained combinations of two depigmenting ingredients investigated, with a predominance of the hydroquinone + clobetasol propionate (27.38%). These results demonstrate that manufacturers’ declarations regarding the compositions of active ingredients in lightening cosmetics can sometimes be deceptive.

Publisher

MDPI AG

Subject

Dermatology,Pharmaceutical Science,Aging,Chemical Engineering (miscellaneous),Surgery

Reference33 articles.

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4. Prevalence, determinants and perception of use of skin lightening products among female medical undergraduates in Nigeria;Egbi;Ski. Health Dis.,2021

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