Characterizing the Relationship between the Sediment Grain Size and the Shoreline Variability Defined from Sentinel-2 Derived Shorelines

Abstract

Sediment grain size is a fundamental parameter conditioning beach-face morphology and shoreline changes. From remote sensing data, an efficient definition of the shoreline position as the water–land interface may allow studying the geomorphological characteristics of the beaches. In this work, shoreline variability is defined by extracting a set of Satellite Derived Shorelines (SDS) covering about three and a half years. SDS are defined from Sentinel 2 imagery with high accuracy (about 3 m RMSE) using SHOREX. The variability is related to a large dataset of grain-size samples from the micro-tidal beaches at the Gulf of Valencia (Western Mediterranean). Both parameters present an inverse and non-linear relationship probably controlled by the beach-face slope. High shoreline variability appears associated with fine sands, followed by a rapid decrease (shifting point about medium/coarse sand) and subsequent small depletions as grain sizes increases. The relationship between both parameters is accurately described by a numerical function (R2 about 0.70) when considering samples at 137 open beaches. The definition of the variability is addressed employing different proxies, coastal segment lengths, and quantity of SDS under diverse oceanographic conditions, allowing to examine the effect they have on the relation with the sediment size. The relationship explored in this work improves the understanding of the mutual connection between sediment size, beach-face slope, and shoreline variability, and it may set up the basis for a rough estimation of sediment grain size from satellite optical imagery.