Performance Factors in Sport Climbing: A Systematic Review

Abstract

Background: Our aim was understanding and identifying the main performance factors involved in sport climbing. Methods: A systematic review was conducted using the Google Scholar, Dialnet, Scielo, and Redalyc databases. Results: After establishing the selection criteria, a total of 27 documents related to the subject of study were examined. A limited number of publications with scientific evidence related to performance factors in sport climbing were found, despite the rise of sport climbing following its inclusion in the Olympic Games in Tokyo 2020. The results have been organized based on different performance factors analyzed, such as strength, muscular endurance, psychological factors, etc. Key determinants in climbing performance, and thus those present in elite athletes, include improved climbing efficiency, greater ability to apply maximum force or finger and palm pressure resistance, and increased arm locking strength. Additionally, it has been observed that those who can apply higher and more consistent loads experience better muscle oxygenation and have greater flexibility and lateral foot reach. Conclusions: Climbing performance is the result of factors that can be enhanced through training. Therefore, further research is needed to understand the performance factors involved in this sports discipline and how to improve them.