Affiliation:
1. Laboratoire Charles Coulomb-UMR 5221 CNRS, Université de Montpellier, F-34095 Montpellier, France
2. Departement of Mechanics, Qom University of Technology, Qom 1519-37195, Iran
Abstract
In this study, the evolution of surface water solitary waves under the action of Jeffreys’ wind–wave amplification mechanism in shallow water is analytically investigated. The analytic approach is essential for numerical investigations due to the scale of energy dissipation near coasts. Although many works have been conducted based on the Jeffreys’ approach, only some studies have been carried out on finite depth. We show that nonlinearity, dispersion, and anti-dissipation are the dominating phenomena, obeying an anti-diffusive and fully nonlinear Serre–Green–Naghdi (SGN) equation. Applying an appropriate perturbation method, the current research yields a Korteweg–de Vries–Burger-type equation (KdV-B), combining weak nonlinearity, dispersion, and anti-dissipation. This derivation is novel. We show that the continuous transfer of energy from wind to water results in the growth over time of the KdV-B soliton’s amplitude, velocity, acceleration, and energy, while its effective wavelength decreases. This phenomenon differs from the classical results of Jeffreys’ approach and is due to finite depth. In this study, it is shown that expansion and breaking occur in finite time. These times are calculated and expressed with respect to soliton- and wind-appropriateparameters and values. The obtained values are measurable in experimental facilities. A detailed analysis of the breaking time is conducted with regard to various criteria. By comparing these times to the experimental results, the validity of these criteria are examined.
Subject
Fluid Flow and Transfer Processes,Mechanical Engineering,Condensed Matter Physics
Reference45 articles.
1. The principal stage in wind-wave generation;Li;J. Fluid Mech.,2022
2. Asymptotic interpretation of the Miles mechanism of wind-wave instability;Bonfils;J. Fluid Mech.,2022
3. On the formation of water waves by wind;Jeffreys;Proc. R. Soc.,1925
4. On the formation of water waves by wind (Second paper);Jeffreys;Proc. R. Soc.,1926
5. On the generation of waves by turbulent wind;Phillips;J. Fluid Mech.,1957